Phenolic compound profiling and antioxidant potential of different types of Schisandra henryi in vitro cultures.

Schisandra henryi is an endemic species of medicinal potential known from traditional Chinese medicine. As part of this study, a complex biotechnological and phytochemical assessment was conducted on S. henryi with a focus on phenolic compounds and antioxidant profiling. The following in vitro cultures were tested: microshoot agar and callus, microshoot agitated, and suspension, along with the microshoot culture in PlantForm bioreactors. Qualitative profiling was performed by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography with a photodiode array detector coupled with ion-trap mass spectrophotometry with electrospray ionization and then quantitative analysis by high-performance liquid chromatography with a diode array detector using standards. In the extracts, mainly the compounds from procyanidins were identified as well as phenolic acids (neochlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, protocatechuic acid) and catechin. The highest content of phenolic compounds was found for in vitro agar microshoot culture (max. total content 229.87 mg/100 g DW) and agitated culture (max. total content 22.82 mg/100 g DW). The max. TPC measured using the Folin-Ciocalteu assay was equal to 1240.51 mg GAE/100 g DW (agar microshoot culture). The extracts were evaluated for their antioxidant potential by the DPPH, FRAP, and chelate iron ion assays. The highest potential was indicated for agar microshoot culture (90% of inhibition and 59.31 nM/L TEAC, respectively). The research conducted on the polyphenol profiling and antioxidant potential of S. henryi in vitro culture extracts indicates the high therapeutic potential of this species. KEY POINTS: • Different types of S. henryi in vitro cultures were compared for the first time. • The S. henryi in vitro culture strong antioxidant potential was determined for the first time. • The polyphenol profiling of different types of S. henryi in vitro cultures was shown.

Shoot Cultures of Vitis vinifera (Vine Grape) Different Cultivars as a Promising Innovative Cosmetic Raw Material-Phytochemical Profiling, Antioxidant Potential, and Whitening Activity.

The primary purpose of this work was the initiation and optimization of shoot cultures of different Vitis vinifera L. cultivars: cv. Chardonnay, cv. Hibernal, cv. Riesling, cv. Johanniter, cv. Solaris, cv. Cabernet Cortis, and cv. Regent. Cultures were maintained on 30-day growth cycles using two media, Murashige and Skoog (MS) and Schenk and Hildebrandt (SH), with various concentrations of plant growth regulators. Tested media ('W1'-'W4') contained varying concentrations of 6-benzylaminopurine (BA) in addition to indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) and 1-naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA). High performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS) was used for metabolomic profiling. In all tested extracts, 45 compounds were identified (6 amino acids, 4 phenolic acids, 13 flavan-3-ols, 3 flavonols, and 19 stilbenoids). Principal component analysis (PCA) was performed to assess the influence of the genotype and medium on metabolic content. PCA showed that metabolic content was mainly influenced by genotype and to a lesser extent by medium composition. MS media variants induced the amino acid, procyanidin, and flavan-3-ol production. In addition, the antioxidant potential and anti-tyrosinase activity was measured spectrophotometrically. The studies on antioxidant activity clearly reveal very high efficiency in reducing free radicals in the tested extracts. The strongest tyrosinase inhibition capacity was proved for shoots cv. Hibernal cultured in SH medium and supplemented with NAA, with an inhibition of 17.50%. These studies show that in vitro cultures of V. vinifera cvs. can be proposed as an alternative source of plant material that can be potentially used in cosmetic industry.

Vitis vinifera (Vine Grape) as a Valuable Cosmetic Raw Material.

This review refers to botanical, ecological and phytochemical characteristics of Vitis vinifera L. (vine grape)-a species, the valuable properties of which are widely exploited in the food industry and in recent times in medicine as well as in phytocosmetology. The general characteristic of V. vinifera, followed by the chemical composition and biological activities of different extracts obtained from the plant (fruit, skin, pomace, seed, leaf and stem extracts), are provided. A concise review of the extraction conditions of grape metabolites and the methods of their analysis are also presented. The biological activity of V. vinifera is determined by the presence of high contents of polyphenols, mainly flavonoids (e.g., quercetin, kaempferol), catechin derivatives, anthocyanins and stilbenoids (e.g., trans-resveratrol, trans-ε-viniferin). The review pays particular attention to the application of V. vinifera in cosmetology. It has been proven that V. vinifera possesses strong cosmetological-related properties, such as anti-ageing properties, anti-inflammatory properties and skin-whitening properties. Moreover, a review of studies on V. vinifera biological activities, which are of particular interest for dermatologic problems, are disclosed. Furthermore, the work also emphasises the importance of biotechnological studies on V. vinifera. The last part of the review is addressed to the safety of the use of V. vinifera.

Illicium verum (Star Anise) and Trans-Anethole as Valuable Raw Materials for Medicinal and Cosmetic Applications.

Illicium verum Hook f. (star anise) is considered an important species in Traditional Chinese Medicine and is also used in contemporary medicine in East Asian countries. It occurs in natural habitats in southeastern parts of China and Vietnam, and is cultivated in various regions in China. The raw materials-Anisi stellati fructus and Anisi stellati aetheroleum obtained from this species exhibit expectorant and spasmolytic activities. The European Pharmacopoeia (4th edition) indicates that these raw materials have been used in allopathy since 2002. The biological activities of the above-mentioned raw materials are determined by the presence of valuable secondary metabolites such as monoterpenoids, sesquiterpenoids, phenylpropanoids, and flavonoids. Recent pharmacological studies on fruit extracts and the essential oil of this species have confirmed their antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant activities and thus their medicinal and cosmetic value. The aim of this review was to examine the progress of phytochemical and pharmacological studies that focused on possible cosmetic applications. In addition to fruit extracts and essential oil, the current consensus on the safety of trans-anethole, which is the main compound of essential oil used in cosmetology, is underlined here.

Akebia quinata and Akebia trifoliata - a review of phytochemical composition, ethnopharmacological approaches and biological studies.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: 'Akebia stem' (Akebiae caulis) is one of the newest raw materials officially introduced into therapeutic practice from traditional Chinese medicine. A monograph on this material appeared for the first time in 2018 in Supplement 9.6 to the 9th edition of the European Pharmacopoeia. In the latest 10th edition of the European Pharmacopoeia, the monograph remained unchanged. The 'Akebia stem' monograph allows the use, as a raw material, of Akebia quinata (Houtt.) Decne., A. trifoliata (Thunb.) Koidz, or a mixture of the two species. AIM OF THE STUDY: The aim of this work is a detailed review of the scientific literature on the genus Akebia (family Lardizabalaceae), with particular emphasis on A. quinata and A. trifoliata, providing information on the botanical, ecological, and chemical characteristics of these species. Professional research on their biological activity has been reviewed. The attention is given to phytochemistry and cosmetology. The traditional use of Akebia species and their potential use in medicine and cosmetology are assessed. In addition, individual papers describing biotechnology research on in vitro cultures of the two Akebia species are presented. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The presented botanical, ecological, phytochemical and biotechnological characterization is based on a thorough review of published scientific research. It is a compilation and evaluation of data on the chemical composition and biological activities of these Akebia species. RESULTS: This critical review of phytochemical studies demonstrates that triterpenoid saponins are dominant secondary metabolites of these species. A comparative analysis of phytochemical studies on A. quinata and A. trifoliata stems, roots, fruits, and seeds showed differences in metabolites based on the plant parts and species. The triterpenoid saponins mutongsaponin C and saponin Pj1 have been found only in A. trifoliata, whereas the phenolic glycoside 2-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-ethyl-O-ß-D-glucopyranoside has been found only in A. quinata. Biological activity studies of A. quinata stem, leaf and/or fruit extracts have confirmed diuretic, hepatoregenerative, neuroprotective, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-obesity effects and an influence on ethanol metabolism. Different action profiles have been demonstrated for A. trifoliata stem, leaf and/or fruit extracts. Studies have proven the antibacterial and anticancer (liver and stomach) effects of these species. This review presents potential phytopharmacological applications of both species and detailed data on their broad applications in cosmetology. Attention is also drawn to information on the safety of using Akebia. Finally, an overview of biotechnology research on both species is presented. CONCLUSIONS: This review provides comprehensive knowledge about the ethnopharmacological use of Akebia species. Moreover, new findings on the differences in the chemical composition and biological activity profiles are underlined.